How I printed the puzzle.
Here is an overview of the steps it took to make the 3D Topographic Map Puzzle. This idea came from the YouTube channel MakeAnything and the tutorial How to Make Your Own 3D Printed Puzzles.

#1
Map out region
First I need to find a mapped region around Colorado Springs what will be a wide range of elevation and main road paths. After all, a flat 3D map puzzle wouldn't be very interesting.
Terrain2STL is a free website that create .STL models of the surface of Earth. STL is a file format that CAD software can read.
#2
Basic editing of .STL file in
3D Builder
I need to repair the model, resize (not to scale), and cut it horizontally.
Program: 3D Builder
OS: Windows 10 app
Price: Free
Version: 18.0.1931.0
Download link: Microsoft Store
Step 1: Open model
Open 3D Builder
Open. Load Object. Browse to raw .stl file. Open. Import model as mm (units).
Step 2: repair model
Click on "One or more objects are invalidly defined. Click here to repair."
Step 3: change size of model
Scale (Q/W). Lock aspect ratio (W). Change width (x) to 300mm. Unlock aspect ratio (Q). Change length (y) to 375mm.
Step 4: split height
"Edit" --> "Split". Bring green horizontal line as far up before changing landscape. Add an additional 8mm. Keep top. Split.
Save As a .stl file.
#3
Converting to puzzle pieces in Fusion 360
Convert mesh .STL file to a BREP, import DXF cookie cutter, and extrude through model.
Program: Autodesk Fusion 360
OS: Windows 10
Price: Free 3-year Education Use trial
Version: 2.0.6508
Download link: Autodesk
Step 1: Import mesh and convert to BREP
Right click on "Document Settings" --> "Do not capture Design History"
Continue.
Design interface: Solid tab: "INSERT" --> "Insert Mesh". Browse to edited .stl --> Open --> OK
Click on map.
Design interface: Mesh tab: "MODIFY" --> "Reduce"
Density from 0.250 to 0.5 --> OK (this is optional, based on your own computer's memory)
Design interface: Solid tab
Right click on model --> "Mesh to BRep" --> OK (this process might take a while)
Right click on "Document Settings" --> "Capture Design History"
Step 2: clean up bottom layer
Rotate model to see bottom. Click on any bottom face.
Design interface: Solid tab: "CREATE" --> "Create sketch"
Design interface: Sketch tab: "CREATE" --> "Rectangle" --> "2-Point Rectangle"(r)
Create a rectangle larger then model. "Finish Sketch"
Select new rectangle, be sure to also select other bottom face.
Design interface: Solid tab: "MODIFY"--> "Press Pull"(q)
Direction from One Side to Two Sides. Side 1(downward) is ~20mm. Side 2(upward) is 0.3mm.
Step 3: creating 'cookie cutter' from flat image
Rotate model to see bottom. Click on bottom face.
Design interface: Solid tab: "INSERT" --> "Insert DXF".
Select DXF file. Browse to "puzzleOutline(.3mmClearance).dxf" by MakeAnything (clearance will depend on printer and material used). OK.
Select sketch.
Design interface: Solid tab: "MODIFY"--> "Press Pull"(q)
Select the face of the sketch. Make sure it's not an edge or a small puzzle piece.
Distance from 0.00mm to about -100mm. Wait for extrusion to load. (Make sure the height goes over the highest part of your model).
Operation from "Cut" to "New Body". OK.
Step 4: editing 'cookie cutter' placement and size
Select the new body. (now calling 'cookie cutter')
Design interface: Solid tab: "MODIFY" --> "Move/Copy"(m)
Z Angle from 0.0deg to 90.0deg. OK.
Select the 'cookie cutter' body.
Design interface: Solid tab: "MODIFY"--> "Move/Copy"(m)
Move Type from "Free Move" to "Point to Point"
Origin Point: inside bottom corner dot of 'cookie cutter'
Target Point: bottom corner of model. OK.
Design interface: Solid tab: "MODIFY" --> "Scale"(s)
Entities: select 'cookie cutter'
Point: click somewhere in the middle of model
Scale Factor from 1.00 to 0.99. OK. (this is done because both bodies are exactly lined up, which won't work in cutting later on)
Select the 'cookie cutter' body.
Design interface: Solid tab: "MODIFY" --> "Move/Copy"(m)
Move Type: "Free Move"
Z Distance from 0.00mm to -2.00mm
Step 5: cutting the model into puzzle pieces
Design interface: Solid tab: "MODIFY" --> "Combine"
Target Body: model
Tool Bodies: 'cookie cutter'
Operation: Cut
Wait until models turn red. Everything that is red will be deleted. OK. (process will take a long time)
All 130 puzzle pieces will be listed as unnamed bodies on the left. They are in a random order. (I created a grid system with the letters A through J and then 1 to 13. Each piece was relabeled and grouped near it's neighbors. ie.A1, A2, A3...)
Save each piece by right clicking on the named body in the list --> Save As STL
Refinment level is how good quality. High or Medium is fine. OK. (I stored all my A's in one folder, then B's, etc..)
#4
Adding .STL puzzle pieces to 3D printer .gcode
Now all the pieces need to be printed on my 3D printer. 3D printers only understand minimal computer language called .gcode
Another program called a slicer can do this.
Program: Ultimaker Cura
OS: Windows 10
Price: Free
Version: 4.3.0
Download link: Ultimaker
Step 1: Add .stl files
"File" --> "Open File(s)"
Select about 4 to 6 of the 130 puzzle pieces that are .stl files. (The amount of pieces printed depends on your 3D printer build plate. Mine is 235mm x 235mm x 260mm)
My 3D printer (Geeetech A10M) is already added into the settings. I have a profile that I have edited many times that is just right for my printer, the material, and time frame available.
Step 2: Slicing
Click on Slice. And at the top, click on Preview to see layer by layer assesment where the nozzle will go.
This example will take 4.5 hours, use about 52grams of PLA plactic filiment, and cost about $1.04 worth of material.
These settings have a raft: A bottom layer between the pieces and the bottom of the build plate. I add this so it comes off easy and the bottom of the pieces looks good.
The settings have a 15% infill: Each piece is not 100% solid. This would be unreasonable and a waste of material. 15% is a good enough to hold the piece together, plus the Cubic design adds more structural integrity.
The standard temperature of the nozzle will be at 200°C.
The build plate will be at 60°C.
Step 3: Save to .gcode file
Click on "Save to File" and save a .gcode file to the flash drive that goes with the 3D printer OR connect 3D printer through USB and directly print through Cura.
If you were to open a .gcode file as text document it would look like:
;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:16494
;Filament used: 17.3719m, 0m
;Layer height: 0.15
;MINX:57.657
;MINY:52.077
;MINZ:0.36
;MAXX:177.77
;MAXY:189.06
;MAXZ:28.635
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.3.0
T0
M140 S60
M105
M190 S60
M104 S200
M105
M109 S200
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
G28 ;Home
G1 Y-3.0 F500.0 ;move out of print volume
G1 X60.0 E9 F500.0 ;start purge line
G1 X100.0 E12.5 F500.0 ;finish purge line
G92 E0
G92 E0
G1 F1500 E-6.5
;LAYER_COUNT:183
;LAYER:-7
M107
G0 F7200 X72.029 Y113.706 Z0.36
;TYPE:SUPPORT-INTERFACE
G1 F1500 E0
G1 F1350 X72.617 Y113.352 E0.08218
G1 X73.237 Y112.999 E0.16761
G1 X73.971 Y112.614 E0.26685
G1 X74.6 Y112.317 E0.35014
G1 X75.23 Y112.054 E0.43188
G1 X75.656 Y111.898 E0.4862
....
....
....
G0 F7200 X132.034 Y181.402
G0 X132.193 Y181.125
;TYPE:SKIN
G1 F600 X132.238 Y180.887 E723.682
G0 F7200 X132.309 Y180.675
G1 F600 X132.258 Y180.624 E723.6829
;TIME_ELAPSED:16494.024824
G1 F1500 E717.1829
M140 S0
M107
M104 S0
M140 S0
G92 E1
G1 E-1 F300
G28 X0 Y0
M84
G1 Y200 ;move plate forward
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
M104 S0
;End of Gcode
Material used:
I used Polylactic acid (PLA), which is the most common of all materials used in FDM printers. There isn't much smell, is resonably durable, and doesn't have any tendency to melt or warp, like other materials sometimes do.
Brand: Hatchbox
Color: white
Diameter: 1.75mm
(Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03mm)
Spool amount: 1 kg
Amazon price: $19.99
LINK: HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament
I kept track of each set of pieces I printed:
*how much of material is used in grams
*how much of material is used in dollars/cents
*how long will it take

#5
Printing out the puzzle pieces
Next is the VERY long progress of printing all 130 pieces, each at 4 or 5 at a time.
3D Printer brand: Geeetech
3D Printer model: A10M (Amazon LINK)
Printing technology: FDM
Build volume: 220*220*260 mm³
Printing accuracy: 0.1mm
Printing speed: 120 mm/s (max)
Filament diameter: 1.75mm
Nozzle diameter: 0.4mm
Filament: ABS / PLA/wood-polymer/PVA/HIPS/PETG, etc.
Max temp for hotbed: 100℃
Max temp for extruder: 250℃
Software resources
Operating system: Windows, MAC, Linux
Control software: EasyPrint 3D, Repetier-Host, Simplify 3D, Cura, Slic3r, etc.
Remote App: EasyPrint 3D App (with an optional 3D WiFi module)
Electrical Power supply: Input: 115V/230V; Output: DC 24V, 360W
Connectivity: Wi-Fi (with an optional 3D WiFi module), USB cable, SD card (support stand-alone printing)
Display screen: LCD 2004
Stepper Motors: 1.8°step angle with 1/16 micro-stepping
Physical Dimensions & Weight
Machine Dimension: 478 x 413 x 485mm³
Machine Net weight: 7.96kg
Machine Gross weight: 9.98 kg

If I had a big enough printer and could print all the pieces all at once, it would take 7 days, 10 hours, and 20 minutes.

#6
Adding color
I added color to make the puzzle more exciting and easier to put together.
Colors used:
Brand: Ceramcoat Delta
Color name: Crimson
Product number: 2076
Price I paid: $1.69
Brand: Ceramcoat Delta
Color name: Straw
Product number: 2078
Price I paid: $1.69
Brand: Ceramcoat Delta
Color name: Medium Foliage Green
Product number: 2536
Price I paid: $1.69
Brand: Ceramcoat Delta
Color name: Pine Green
Product number: 2526
Price I paid: $1.69
Brand: Ceramcoat Delta
Color name: Black
Product number: 2506
Price I paid: $1.69
Brand: DecoArt Dazzling Metallics
Color name: Venetian Gold
Product number: DAO72-3
Price I paid: $2.29
Brand: FolkArt Color Shift Acrylic
Color name: Purple Flash
Product number: 5132
Price I paid: $5.49
Covered over colors with clear satin varnish for protection
Brand: DecoArt DuraClear
Name: Satin Varnish
Product number: DS21-9
Price I paid: $2.29

#7
Finishing touches
Last but not least, I need to take apart the puzzle, clean up the pieces and ship the pieces.
Scraping pieces:
After the acrylic paint and it's varnish dry, the puzzle pieces are all stuck together.
Once by one each piece is taken off and the edges are scraped off. First I used a dull knife, but later on I found the whole process was easier with a rotary tool.
The bit I used was a diamond cutter, tree shaped.

























